By Donna Richardson
Utrecht is a second city to Amsterdam and full of hospitable people. A visit to this city allows the elite traveller to unravel the history of Utrecht in the town centre exploring its gothic architecture or by exploring its beautiful castles and country houses on its outskirts. As a city Utrecht looks gorgeous in all seasons, but in Autumn as the old trees bordering the canals shed their rusty leaves on the ground, it takes on an even more beautiful glow before the onset of winter and the Christmas preparations which are legendary.
The beating heart of Holland
Utrecht is described as the lively, beating heart of Holland and known for its city centre with wharf cellars along the canals housing cafes and terraces by the water, in Utrecht, you’ll also find many gardens, courtyards and parks for soulful relaxation. There are hidden courtyards to the romantic Oude Hortus, from cosy parks such as the Wilhelminapark and Park Lepelenburg, where activities are organised throughout the year. One can go for lovely walks, play sports and have a picnic and there are pastures for animals, playgrounds, circuses and festivals with a cultural or culinary programme. A particularly idyllic spot at the edge of the Science Park, with the sound of falling water and buzzing insects in the summer is botanical gardens. This charming space is part of the oldest university gardens in the Netherlands and are located around the 19th-century Fort Hoofddijk.
Background History
Utrecht is a magnificent medieval university town in the heart of Holland, full of wonderful architecture dating back to Roman times. There are many opportunities to explore these wonders and combine cultural activities with eating and shopping. Most of the city is built around the iconic Dom, a 14th-century bell tower with city view from the highest and oldest church tower in Holland. The Dom Tower was built between 1321 and 1382 and is 112 meters high. Even if you can’t see them, you are likely to hear one of its thirteen bells that weigh between 880 and 18,000 pounds and play out every hour. At the top a birds-eye view of Utrecht awaits once you climb the 465 stairs and on a clear day, you can see Amersfoort, Rhenen, Montfoort, Oudewater, Woerden and even Amsterdam from the top.
The Dom was separated from the Gothic Cathedral of St. Martin after a tornado struck the church in 1647. This is now located on central Domplein square. The museum Catharijne convent also shows religious art and artefacts in a former monastery Kloosterhof, and the monastic garden offers peaceful refuge. There are so many pretty buildings around this stunning university town. The town is carved out by an intricate network of canals. The Oudegracht winds through the city centre and is inextricably linked to its history.
Two worlds above and below water
The Oudegracht is a wonderful place to walk down day or night. Above ground, weave in between the quaint side street shops and restaurants looking over the canal side. Below some steps you will find a wonderful world of wharf cellars housing cafés and terraces by the water. These former warehouses of the 13th century provide attractive options for diners and drinkers.
Deep in the cellars of Utrecht, there is a tropical paradise called the Rum Club with colourful food, music, cocktails, beers and rum all contain influences of exotic places. The friendly cafe-cum-theatre De Bastaard has been a fixture of Utrecht’s nightlife for years now. The cafe was originally established according to the credo ‘just act normal, that’s crazy enough’ that originates from the Twente region of the Netherlands, and has been run by the same owners since 1984. De Bastaard is a great place to have a beer or play a game of pool, and every once in a while the cafe is transformed into a charming little theatre where shows are staged.
Many enjoy a snack or a drink down at water level taking in the beauty of the water a wonderful world of bridges that are illuminated by an artistic light show called Trajectum Lumen. This exhibition was designed by light architect Har Hollands who lights up the city and the water 365 nights a year. The project features 15 works of light art by Dutch and foreign artists and students at HKU University of the Arts Utrecht and is visible from sunset until midnight every night. Every Saturday, there is a 1.5-hour Trajectum Lumen tour, with an experienced guide taking you past all the installations.
Gastronomy
Utrecht is a truly international city and has a range of international restaurants, diners, lunch rooms, coffee corners and delicatessens both in the city centre and in the surrounding districts. Hidden in small alleyways or right on one of the bustling squares you’ll find many fine dining options. Cantina di David offers Italian fine dining in the heart of Utrecht, where epicureans can be seated in an authentic 13th century cellar at the Oudegracht of Utrecht.
Continuing the Italian theme at Aandacht voor Eten, just on the edge of town in Biltstraat provides the perfect place to enjoy fine wines and food with a Dutch twist. The cook’s family table menu is excellent with a menu that includes a steady fayre of goats cheese, fish, cheese platters and succulent venison reindeer and potatoes and vegetables, and a never ending supply of fine wine, delicious desserts and coffee to finish.
Farther afield is the magnificent Kasteel Heemstede, around 8km outside of the city walls. If you are prepared to travel even farther, 17 km outside of the main town is La Provence with one Michelin star. Here chef André van Alten serves up consistently high-quality cuisine changing his dishes regularly and enjoying showcasing his full creativity in his garnishes. Different textures, playful contrasts of temperature, powerful sauces and gently acidic flavours are all used to add subtle depth to his dishes. He has a preference for fish, although the saddle of lamb seasoned with sea salt is one of La Provence’s classic dishes. The overall experience is enhanced by a selection of superb wines that complement these delicious dishes perfectly, in an intimate setting with a verdant terrace, makes it well worth a visit.
Where to stay in Utrecht
There are plenty of hotels including internationally recognised luxury brands such as the Park Plaza hotel close to the station and for a beau monde traveller elegant options such as the Grand Hotel Karel V a former monastery and military hospital converted into a five star hotel. With a monumental Napoleonic wing and modern Roman wing and 121 spacious rooms in a combination of modern and historic styles. They come with all comforts you might need. Guests can benefit from free Wi-Fi, a bathrobe with slippers, and in-room coffee and tea.
Restaurant Karel 5 serves a la carte fine cuisine with various wines in a setting with big mirrors and a chimney-piece where Chef de Cuisine Vito Reekers and Maitre-Sommelier Johan Kragtwijk reign in one of the oldest monastery kitchens in Utrecht. There is also a bistro Karel 5 and bar and lounge serving coffee and tea during the day and cocktails at night.
Grand hotel Karel V is a unique five-star hotel in the heart of Utrecht from where you can walk to the central station in less than 10 minutes. Relax after a day of sightseeing in the wellness and fitness centre. Use the sauna and the solarium or swim in the indoor jet-stream pool. Grand Hotel Karel V is situated in the museum quarter of Utrecht. You can walk to the main shopping streets and cafés. A walk along the canals and city patios is also worth your time.
Charming guesthouses to be found in abundance in this quaint city that has many historic links. If you fancy getting to know the locals. The Rosendaal is an excellent choice as a ‘five star’ bed and breakfast apartment. With two levels- a downstairs with a complete kitchen and ding area come living room in bright vibrant colours and rich paintings of African origin, there is a grand dining space and living area. Upstairs is a bedroom and bathroom. Don’t be fooled by its ‘b and b,’ status, it is more like staying in someone’s grand home. What is more, the owner Hans delivers bread, cheese, cold cuts, and fruit to your apartment daily. In the warmer months, canal houseboats are wonderful places to base yourself too.
Entertainment
Utrecht has many tall traditional-style Dutch town houses along the river originally built for merchants of commerce and now lively pubs and restaurants. The Winkle Van Sinkle is a unique listed building and former department store of German merchant traders that now hosts activities, music, dance, drinks and dinner options. You can tango and salsa or enjoy club nights and jazz evenings.
Shopping
Utrecht is an excellent city for shopping, especially close to Christmas when the diverse array of shops, boutiques and markets stay open late every day. If you prefer indoor shopping, simply go to the Hoog Catharijne shopping centre, with over 160 shops inside Holland’s largest shopping centre – a great use of space for the original central train station.
Alternatively, walk through Wilhelminapark and Burgemeester Reigerstraat, a street known for its diverse range of shops and countless cafes and restaurants or cut through the park to reach the Burgemeester Reigerstraat for more shopping.
Transportation
Bicycles are the choice of transport in this attractive, car-free city centre. Trams and trains connect to tourist attractions outside the city such as the Castle De Haar, located near Haarzuilens, in the province of Utrecht in the Netherlands.
Getting there:
Plane
KLM operates multiple daily flights from London to Amsterdam Schiphol Airport where you can travel on by train.
EasyJet (London Gatwick, Stansted and Luton) and Jet2 (Leeds Bradford) are also available.
Train
The grand train station adjacent to the airport connects you to any Dutch city and beyond with timely trains. The Intercity takes just 25 minutes from Amsterdam Schiphol Airport. These double-decker trains are built for long distances and are extremely comfortable and all connect Utrecht to neighbouring cities and the nations’ capital.
The intercity train takes in four stops including the mighty Ajax stadium. On arrival at Utrecht Centraal Station you’ll find your way around the city by foot quite easily.
Utrecht’s central location makes it easily accessible to the nations’ capital and other cities such as Rotterdam, home of the Hague and more. You can even inter-rail around Europe and be in Paris in a couple of hours.
A visit to Utrecht will stay with you forever, it is a pretty city both above the bridge and below it. Furthermore, the hospitable Dutch really make it a fun place to visit. Of course it is not far to Amsterdam where the most opulent hotels fit for royalty exist. Visit Utrecht and discover its wonderful array of nightlife and culture and stay in luxurious accommodation, or base yourself in Amsterdam and visit by train. You will not be disappointed.
DMLR Editorial Services 