By Donna Richardson
Bremen in north-west Germany is a chocolate box town with fairytale connections. Go in search of the Grimm brothers roots and learn about the Bremen musicians. There is so much history to be found here in the region of Lower Saxoy, with its delightful mixture of medieval, gothic, and renaissance architectural influences. Central to the ensemble of historical buildings in Bremen’s old town is the Cathedral, dedicated to St. Peter, situated in the market square or Market Platz in the centre of the town. Adjacent to this is the ancient Domsheide – a magnificent medieval square hosting a number of important buildings, including the main post office, the courthouse, the cathedral precinct with its bell, and the annex to the stock market building as well at the town hall and the seat of power for the government of the municipality.
In this medieval heart you’ll find the famous Bremen Town Musicians statue, which immortalizes a children’s fairy-tale from the Brothers Grimm about a donkey, a dog, a cat and a cockerel who go off in search of their fortune after being classed as tired and old by their masters. On their road trip to Bremen, they take rest in a forest but see a light shining and come across a robbers’ house. To scare off the robbers, they all stood on top of one another to look fierce and ended up frightening the robbers away, taking the house for themselves. Although they never made it to Bremen, a bronze statue by Gerhard Marcks was erected of the Bremen Town Musicians next to Bremen Town Hall in 1953. It is said that anyone who grabs the front hooves of the donkey shall have their dream come true. The moral of the tale is that you are always stronger when acting together.
Nestled in the depths of Bremen’s 600-year-old town hall, next to the Bremen Town Musicians statue is the Ratskeller open house and restaurant. This is a 600-year-old wine cellar where princes and merchants once drank and dined. Even today, this is the best place to sample Germany’s best wines from various rooms and cellars. The Ratskeller is a wonderful upmarket restaurant and pub where drinkers can sit at the small tables and soak up the atmosphere in the hall, while diners converse in their groups on long tables with their laughter echoing around the wonderfully ornate hall. The absolute best tables are found in the secluded booths, known as Priölken which are gathered around the oak barrels where barons and merchants once sat in semi-privacy to barter their trade deals. In between tables are decorative old barrels and the walls are adorned with unique frescoes to admire. Down in the cellar Germany’s oldest cask wines mature undisturbed. Upon entering the room, lit only by candlelight, the smell of the casks and the wine gives a hint of the centuries-old treasures stored here. Beneath a rose painted on the ceiling lies the rose cask which contains the famous vintage Rüdesheim from 1653. Although the wine is still fit to drink, it very rarely is, because it is priceless. Only the cellar master and the current mayor of Bremen can sample it – but they rarely do. However, Queen Elizabeth II of Great Britain did get to try a thimble’s worth during her state visit to Bremen in 1978.
Bremen doesn’t really do five star, but many fairly upmarket four star hotels can be found nearby scattered among the winding streets in the heart of old Bremen one notable example being the DesignHotel ÜberFluss a contemporary four-star establishment with a spa and indoor pool, sauna and historic relaxation room. The style of the hotel is minimalistic and elegant, with most rooms commanding a view of the river Weser.
Just one-minute walk from Bremen Town Hall and the statue of the Bremen Town Musicians, you will find the Atlantic Grand Hotel Bremen. All rooms feature a modern design with soundproofed windows, a comfortable seating area and work desk. The spacious bathrooms have a bath or shower. The hotel has a spa area with sauna, steam room and a separate gym with modern fitness equipment and bikes can be rented at the lobby. The Atlantic’s restaurant with conservatory serves international cuisine and there is a lobby bar and smoking lounge.
An advantage of staying in the heart of Bremen you are always close to the shops. Nearby shopping experiences include the Böttcherstraße just opposite is a 330 ft long walkway, famous for its unusual architecture and ranks among the city’s main cultural landmarks and visitor attractions. Built between 1922 and 1931, after Ludwig Roselius, a Bremen-based coffee-trader charged Bernhard Hoetger with the artistic supervision over the project. The street and its buildings are a rare example of expressionism and are protected.
Other areas of interest include Dechanatstraße – home to Breman University of the Arts music faculty and Violenstraße – where memorials to persecuted Jewish people from World War Two can be found in the ‘stumbling stone’ brass plaques in the pavement in front of houses where they lived. All these sites are easily connected from this square by foot, tram or Uber.
The Haufenbahff central station is a beautiful example of architecture. Many fancy four star hotels can be found clustered around this area including a favourite of business travellers is the Inter City Continental, conveniently located next to the tram and rail station and hosts the Flemings Brasserie restaurant offering a selection of seafood, vegetarian and grilled items and just a 15 minute stroll from the old town and the Arena Messe Hall which is home to the Bremen football team and a convention centre which hosts many exhibitions, such as the international fish show where you can sample weird and wonderful fish dishes including curried cod, smoked herring, salmon, octopus and caviar cocktails once a year.
If you are prepared to explore further, Villa Linnenschmidt offers elegant and luxurious classical-style hotel rooms in a quiet suburb of Bremen, about 30 minutes by foot, car or by public transport from the old town. Set in an attractive red-brick building, the generously sized rooms at the property feature elegant décor and antique-style furnishings and soundproofed rooms with modern flat screen televisions. Guests are welcome to use the on-site fitness centre at Villa Linnenschmidt. There is also a golf course nearby. Bremen Main Train Station is just 1.2 miles from the property and the A27 motorway can be reached in 5 minutes. Free private parking is available on site.
Visit all year round, but it is best in December for Christmas markets, when the streets are carpeted in snow, and there is a German market in full swing and plenty of opportunities to shop and get lost down the side streets. Usually at this time of year Bremen is a dazzling sight, illuminated by shimmering lights and the streets are carpeted in snow as children glide on the ice rink. Bremen’s medieval square is transformed into a winter wonderland as the Christmas market takes over the historic square, a sparkling vision of lovingly decorated stalls and stands, and romantic Christmas lights create a magnetic atmosphere.
Wherever you go, the air is filled with evocative aromas of freshly roasted almonds, traditional gingerbread cakes and mulled wine. In front of the UNESCO World Heritage Site of the 600-year-old Town Hall, over 160 Christmas stalls transform the historic market square and shopping arcades into a romantic Christmas scene. A circular path bedecked with festive lights takes you from the Christmas market to Bremen’s central artery, the River Weser. In the weeks before Christmas, the popular riverside promenade becomes the setting for the historic Schlachte-Zauber winter and maritime market. From organ recals to nativity plays, magical theatre shows and festive exhibitions: a varied programme of festive events for all ages is organised each year by Bremen’s cultural institutions. One of the more bizarre ones occurs in January when Three Wise Men appear on the Weser dike at noon, dressed in colourful garb, accompanied by a “tailor”. In a custom that has evolved from the original ice wager in 1829, they will then throw stones far out onto the ice to test whether the Weser is frozen solid.
The final test comes when the tailor, who must weight no more than 99 pounds, is sent out across the river to see if he can reach the other side without getting his feet wet.
A trip to Bremen, just a short flight from Stansted Airport with Ryanair, makes a perfect budget weekend trip where you can enjoy the beauty of this magical city and its rich heritage. Get around easily by tram or Uber.
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